Many of my examples, both vintage and reproductions, are early 20th Century, but you can see from this portrait, beaded tassels go back much farther. However, I would say that the golden age of beaded fringe and tassels would be the last decades of the 19th C and first few of the 20th Century.
Glass beads come in so many different colors and shapes. I happen to have a bead drawer brimming full, but I had never used seed beads to make tassels before this year. I have sewn seed beads onto fabric as an embellishment but had only used pearls for tassels as I did with this Elizabethan girdle jewelry, below, a simplified version of the one in Angelo Bronzino’s famous portrait of Eleanora of Toledo, above.
Beaded Tassel Examples
Vintage Beaded Tassels
Vintage tassel with an oblong head and three different bead shapes
This is one of a set of vintage tassels that were given to me, and it shows that a variety of bead shapes that were used in a single tassel. This tassel has seed, bugle and faceted beads. By studying this tassel, I learned that a single thread runs thru the legs and the head has a fabric covering, but is soft. I think it is some kind of compressed and shaped cotton ball, I could not reproduce that, but I came up with something that worked as well. See what I came up with below.
Vintage tassels with a round head and a single bead type
This is the second set of vintage tassels that where given to me. These were the first tassels I tried to reproduce because they are much simpler. The legs are all the same length and all the beads are the same size. Seed beads have size numbers that go from 6/0 to 22/0. 6/0 being 3.3 mm and 22/0 being 0.9 mm. The vintage beaded tassels have a 2 mm bead that would be 10/0. I used 11/0 as that was the size, and was the easiest for me to find. See the how I made a copy below.
1890s Vintage Capelet
I really wanted to show you this cape because it is still possible to find beaded appliqués, and it is a fairly simple matter to make this style of tassel. So, if one wants to create a killer cape with the period proper amount of decoration, then it good to know that something like this is not beyond the time constraints of the modern costumer. Thanks to Cynthia Barnes for her photographs of her lovely vintage capelet.
The capelet front shows two sets of appliqués on the left side of the center front opening there are also two on the right side.
This capelet from Cynthia Barnes’ collection shows tassels that hang down from beaded appliqués. They have appliqués on both the front and back of the capelet. The tassels are different from any other tassel I have seen in that the legs are loops. There are two per each tassel and each has a single large bead for its head.
Four of the six tassels hanging down from the front lower left appliqué.
A single tassel close up.
Beaded Tassels
Inspired by the vintage tassels described in Sunny Buchler’s YWU article of late 2011 on a lovely 1910-14 evening gown, I was moved to design and make a Titanic evening gown with beaded tassels. I figured the bag, for sure, needed a tassel and the layers of lace and shear silk over the base fabric should have a tassel, each to hold down the longest points of the asymmetrical hemlines. Later I will show you how I made the tassels.
Left shows the tassel hanging from the bag, and the right shows the cream long skirt overlaid with shear silk fabric, with a beaded edge, and a two-color lace fabric also with a beaded edge. Both layers have a tassel sewn onto the longest corner of the off center opening (the photo on the right is by Richard Mann, 2012).
Three photos of my hinge-gate silk velvet bag; on the left the bag is closed, in the center the top is flipped back and the bag is opened, and on the right the bag is seen from the bottom to show the smocking.
Reproduction of tassels from an appliqué style decoration
I had this blue bead and sequin appliqué (about 7” across) and two smaller so I figured that it might make a nice set to put on a small cape. I ordered some size 6/0 seed beads and some larger faceted beads to match the bugle beads on the edge of the appliqué.
Here is how it is done. ** Measure out where you want the tassels to hang. Take a doubled strand of nylon bead thread (about four feet total) and knot it off. Sew it into the backing fabric of the appliqué from the back side just above where the tassel should be. Then, bring the thread out at the edge of the appliqué, at the top of the tassel. Add 11 of the seed beads and then the large bead. After that, string on about 65 seed beads. Bring the thread back thru the large bead, and the 11 seed beads, and thru the fabric of the appliqué. The entire process is repeated (this time add a different 65 seed beads to create the second loop) and the thread is knotted off on the back of the appliqué out of site.
Repeat from ** with the other tassels. This does mean that you have 8 strands of nylon thread running thru the single strand of 11 beads. That is why it is important to use a thin 00 size nylon thread, and a bead with a hole large enough to take that much thread. Another thing that is important, do your best not to sew thru threads that are already in the bead when you are sewing back thru for the second, third and forth time. The 6/0 beads are fairly large and it is not a problem. But, if you have to, use a single strand of thread and not a double as I did. As always make sure of your knots.
Reproduction Late Victorian Bag
It would not be a Lynn McMasters’ article without a suggestion for a “quick and dirty” version. Here is a Late Victorian drawstring bag where I made the tassels at the ends of the pull cords from the same 3” beaded trim you can see along the bottom of the bag. I also have to admit that the beaded band above the box pleats is a drug store beaded elastic headband, however, the beads are glass. I did not sew those beads I just couched it to the fabric.
Tassel from fringe
Here is another tassel made from beaded fringe trim. The trim was too short to make the tassel the same way as the black ones above, so I added a metal cap. Maybe it is just which hobbies are in and which are out, but I find it is more difficult to find good quality glass bead fringe at fabric stores. If you find some, and it’s not too expensive, it’s good to know that you can use it to make tassels as well as use it as fringe even if it is only 2.5” long. I will show how both of these tassels from fringe were made later in the article.
How to Make a Beaded Tassel: Getting Started
The first five steps are the same for any tassel with a beaded head. The form for the head has to be covered with something that can be sewn onto a wooden bead with a relatively large hole (1/8” is what I use). The hole needs to remain passable by the needle, and you do not want to cover the bead with fabric in a way that creates a seam allowance bump, as that will distort the round shape of the bead. So, I picked a lightweight 1” bias strip and wrapped it twice rather than seaming it. I recommend fine Nylon bead thread for its strength. But, I also wax my thread because it is so much easier to make good strong knots, which is very important when working with bead tassels.
Also, when working with beads keeping them from rolling away is important. In my photos you will see many backgrounds. The gray one is my flocked bead tray that one can purchase, but a piece of scrap velvet (purple background) works just as well. I wanted to make something for my tassel class, so I printed full-page laser labels with an inch grid on the edges. I attached a piece of cotton velvet (red), narrower than the label, to the sticky side, then folded the edges with the grid over to the front. This way there is a work surface with a ruler built in so they could measure the length of their tassel strands. I love working on one of these instead of a tray because it is so much easier to fold in half and pour extra beads back into their containers.
1. Wrap the bias around the bead twice and pin. Tug a little on the bias tape so that it’s snug.
2. With a knotted doubled thread, gather one edge about ¼” in from the end.
3. Push the raw edge into the bead hole with the point of a bamboo skewer or knitting needle.
4. Run the thread thru the hole and gather the other end.
5. Push the raw edge into the hole and pass the thread through the hole to the opposite side of the bead.
Tassel Heads with Beads Running Vertically
6. Add 4 rows of beads one at a time sewing into the fabric at the beginning and end of each row along the 90° radians. One end the bead rows should be close to the hole (loop end), the other should be about 1/8” away from the hole (tassel end). Shown from the loop end.
7. Bead with 4 rows shown from the tassel fringe end.
8. Add 4 more rows of beads each row between two existing rows. Shown from loop end.
9. Add 8 more rows filling in where needed for a total of 16 rows. Shown from tassel fringe end.
10. Bead shown from loop end with 16 rows. Tack each row to the fabric around its middle by couching the thread that runs thru the seed bead rows. Pass the needle under the fabric to the tassel end and run the thread up thru the wooden bead hole to the loop end. Thread ~20 beads and pass thru the center hole. Turn around and run the needle back thru the bead again and thru the seed beads that make the loop that will strengthen the loop, run the thread to the bottom again and knot off.
11. Finished beaded head with loop attached.
Making a Tassel Fringe
1. Measure out about 18 inches of thread. Wax the thread well with beeswax. Do not add a knot. Add 3 beads and pull the thread to about 3″ from the end of your thread.
2. Bring the needle back thru the first bead that you added in step 1.
3. Pull the thread tightly while holding on to the tail end.
4. This will cause the beads to form a triangle. Pass the needle thru the center of the triangle.
5. Before you pull the thread tight bring the point of the needle up thru the thread loop.
6. Pull this very tightly to form a strong knot.
7-8. Repeat step 4 thru 6 again if you like to form a second knot.
9. Add more beads until your string is 9.5″ long.
10. The last three beads will form the triangle at the other end of the strand.
11. Pass the needle and thread back thru the last 3 beads.
12. Pull this tightly to form the triangle.
13. Pass the needle thru the center of the triangle.
14. Before the needle and thread are all of the way thru, pass the needle thru the loop that is form by the thread.
15. Pull the thread tight to form a knot between the last bead and the forth from the last. Repeat if you like.
16-17. Thread the needle back thru the forth from the last bead and up the strand for about 1″. Cut the remainder of the thread.
18. At the other end of the strand pass the needle thru about 1″ of the strand and thread the free end of the thread thru the eye.
19. Pull on the needle to bury the tail. Cut off any thread end that comes out with the bead.
You have created two of the tassel strands that will be attached to your beaded ball. Do not worry if the beads on the strand are not really tight. In fact it is better if they are not, 1/16 – 1/8 of an inch play in the string is ideal.
A tassel with 16 ends is made by repeating steps 1 thru 19 eight times and sewing them onto the bead ball at their centers (left). If you want a tassel with two different lengths of strands you can sew the strands on at 1/3 (center) or 1/4 (right) in from one end.
Adding the Tassel fringe
You can sew them onto the bead covered ball with the needle and thread that is still attached either one at a time or all of them at one time. Use several stitches into the fabric around the bead or go thru the center hole and back a couple times.
Bead with one tassel leg attached at its center.
Bead with 2 tassel legs attached.
Bead with 3 tassel legs attached.
Bead with 4 tassel legs attached. The remainder of the legs where added in the same manner.
Tassel heads with beads running horizontally
Cover the wooden bead as above with bias. Add two inches of seed beads to your thread.
Run your needle down the center of the wooden bead. Then back up and thru the seed beads again and down thru the wooden bead and back up.
Add 6 seed beads to your thread then, sew back thru the first bead to form a circle around the base of the loop (row 1).
Anchor the beads by couching the thread running thru the beads to the fabric with a stitch between every 2-3 beads along the row.
Add another line of beads enough to make a circle that will lie flat around the outside of row 1 (row 2). This should take about 20 beads.
Anchor by couching this row as you did row 1.
Add another line of beads sew those into a circle and anchor them. Continue with rows until you have finished covering the wooden bead to the bottom.
Leave about 1/8” inch on each side of the center hole open so you can sew the tassel legs on.
For this tassel, I made 2 long tassel legs and 4 shorter legs. They where all attached by the centers. I used 4 different types of beads small clear purple seed beads, larger iridescent seed beads, faceted black round beads, and black bugle beads. The beads were strung using the instructions above. The most important thing, when making this type of tassel, is to make sure that the different types of beads line up on all the legs. You might need to count your beads, or measure them depending on the uniformity of your beads. Some of the beads I was working with where very uniform and I could count them, the others I had to measure.
Tassel heads with mixed shapes and sizes of beads.
For this tassel, with an almost oval head, I decided to glue two ½” round beads together. This is done with a fast drying thick glue. I use a wooden skewer to line up the holes.
Three sets of glued beads with the vintage example tassels just above the matt.
To cover the double beads I need two strips of bias.
I basted the bias together with an overlap.
I followed the same steps as with the round bead above. (4-8)
I added one round faceted bead onto the thread and 2” of the small seed beads.
I ran the needle back thru the faceted bead, and down thru the wooden beads. I stitched back up and thru the beads again, and down thru the wooden beads again and back up to create a loop.
I added 5 faceted beads onto the thread and took an anchor stitch between each bead to anchor the thread to the fabric.
I added 9 to 10 beads to the thread to make the third row and anchored between each bead.
Then I added 15 or 16 beads to make the forth row and anchored between each bead.
I used ½” long bugle beads for the sides of the head. I would have rather had 3/8” inch long ones but could not find those.
To attach the beads, I added one bead from the edge of row four down to the center of the lower wooden bead and anchored it by taking a small stitch. I added another seed bead to the thread, and anchored it by taking a small stitch across the fabric at the base of row four. From this point I added beads in one direction only, from the loop end to the fringe end. Each time, I would take a small horizontal stitch to get from the center of the bead I was adding, back to the bead that I had added before the last one. This allowed me to run the thread back up to the loop end, inside that bead, and take a small horizontal stitch plus add another bead. This method helps to anchor the beads to the fabric and hold them tightly to each other.
Then I added two rows of the faceted beads. Row 5 has the same number as 4 and 6 the same number as 3.
I made 9 tassel fringe legs by following the instructions above, except that the fourth bead and the forth from the last bead where faceted beads.
Five of the legs I added to the bead head 1/3 of the way down.
Four of the legs I added at their middles. All of the legs were strung together in a line. The thread was sewn into a circle, and this circle was sewn onto the base of the bead head.
This is the finished reproduction tassel.
This is the vintage tassel. I did notice that some of the fringe legs did not have a faceted bead, but I could not find a pattern so I added one to all the ends.
Tassels from 2.5” beaded fringe
Cut two 5″ lengths of beaded fringe and have ready two bead caps.
Wrap the fringe tape in a tight spiral and sew back and forth several times to keep it held together.
Slip the spiral into the bead cap and sew it in by stitching back and forth a couple of times to the outside of the bead cap. Or if you have a bead cap that is solid you may have to glue the spiral into the cap.
Use the thread to add some beads at the base of the bead cap (this is optional).
Sew the thread out the top hole, and add 16-18 beads onto the thread. You can get these beads from the fringe edge before you roll it into a spiral.
Sew the thread out the bottom of the spiral and back again. Thread it thru all the beads a second time and down to the base of the spiral. Knot off.
Photo of a finished tassel.
Tassel from 3” beaded fringe
These tassels were made in almost the same way as the 2.5” tassel from beaded fringe above, except that the spiral of the fringe tape was wrapped around the cords of the drawstring bag, just above the knots in the cords (left). When the tape was wrapped and sewn, the beaded fringe was flipped back over the tape (center). Then a string of faceted beads are added to contain and create a neck and faux head for the tassel (right).
Sources:
Beads and beading threads from Fire Mountain
2” Gate hinge purse frame from Lacis
Bead caps Michael’s Crafts
Silk velvet fabric from Exotic Silks