This hat is in very good condition for an early 20th C collapsible hat so it’s a good object along with its hat box to study. I love to look for things like the types of stitching that were used, If they used a machine or hand stitch. Also, what type of materials were used for the outer fabric and the lining. And how it was stored for around 100 years without showing any adverse effects.
The “Finchley Establishment” was a high end men’s clothing store on Fifth Avenue in New York and on East Jackson Blvd. in Chicago along with some other cities. It was started in 1915. This hat was sold out of the Chicago store according to the hat box. On the right is to crown lining with the printed logo on eggshell white moiré grosgrain silk fabric
Left; the under brim is covered with silk grosgrain fabric. The lining which you can see sewn to the under brim is a regular weave silk fabric. A find whipstitch was used to sew the lining in. Middle; the brim edge is covered with petersham which is a grosgrain ribbon. The fineness of the bibs on the fabric and the ribbon are nearly the same. The fabric has 80% less ribs than the ribbon. Right; About 1.5″ up from the crown tip along the center back seam of the lining there is a little bow with the size tag still in place. The center back seam is machine stitch.
The lining is made up of two different pieces of fabrics that are sewn together at about 1 1/2″ up from the crown tip then, top stitched to reinforce it. There is a little strap machine stitched that overlaps the seam between the two different fabrics. Usually hats are lined with fabrics cut on the bias but I don’t think these were cut on bias (but I can’t tell).
Except for the outer fabric and the lining there is no structure to make up the side walls except for the 4 metal hinges. The fold in the metal hinges comes just a little above the seam in the lining fabrics and at the mid-point of the crown. when collapsed you can feel the folded hinges thru the lining at the center back, center front and at both sides.
The hatband which is petersham is shorter than on most men’s hats and it has a very simple bow. It is about the same height as the crown is when the hat is collapsed. Both the left and right sides have a seam, most hats only have one seam. I think that is to maintain the slightly flared shape of the sides of the hat when stretched open by the metal hinges. You can find some pictures of the frame and how it works on this site. It is very interesting.
The brim edge has the classic roll for a top hat. Meaning that the edge folds back on itself very little in the front and back (bottom) and a lot on the sides (top).
There is an inner removable structure to the oval hat box. which helps to support the hat by the brim, not the crown tip.
When fully in the box the crown tip does not even touch the bottom of the hat box.
This is what the inside of the hat box looks like when the hat is out. The center of the insert has a rolled edge and 4, half circle tabs cut out (I think for circulation).
The outer ring of cardboard keeps the edge of the hat from hitting the edge of the box no matter if it held on its side or upright. Thereby protecting the brim edge. Seeing the hat box one can figure that this type of hat needs to be stored open and not collapsed.
